Journey One – Heading West Via the Southern Route
14 States: Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky
Timeframe: 5 weeks, September-October 2020
Approximate Miles: 4,500
Our primary objective was to see the Mighty Five – the national parks in Utah.
Tips on Must See Sights in This Part of the Country
Although we did not camp in Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri on this trip, we had done so before. There is plenty to do and see. Indiana is full of charming small towns bordered by well-maintained farms. The Motor Speedway Museum and the zoo are fun attractions in Indianapolis. Chicago, of course, is a city filled with museums, parks, and nightlife. In Missouri, I’m particularly fond of Lake of the Ozarks. Time seems to have stood still there. I love the restaurants with boat docks right on the water, the antique shops, and the beautiful golf courses. Chris and I also had a memorable time in Kansas City, going through the National WWI Museum and Memorial, walking Union Station, and eating barbecue. The Gateway Arch, the Clydesdales at Grant’s Farm, and a Budweiser tour are must-sees in St. Louis.
Route 50 becomes a scenic highway on the other side of Salida, Colorado. It takes you into Gunnison and the Curecanti National Recreation Area. This land houses three reservoirs and is popular for boating, fishing, and hiking. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is one of the least visited national parks, but it shouldn’t be missed if you’re in the area. Over millions of years, the Gunnison River has carved its way through the rock. The park showcases some of the steepest cliffs in the country, which are often darkened by shadows, giving the park its name. It is as stunning as the Grand Canyon, in its own way. On a hike to the rim, we felt the woosh of a peregrine falcon passing overhead. Driving to the valley floor we were able to see the river up close. It was so beautiful I didn’t want to leave.
There are several great sites south of Canyonlands National Park for viewing petroglyphs. Some are well known and easily accessible, some not so much. We were able to make a quick drive to the Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument, which is located close to the Bears Ears National Monument. We made our way along the dusty path, lizards scampering everywhere. Here we saw over 600 markings, some going back 2,000 years. Most of them depict scenes of hunting and agriculture.
Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley are also in this area and worth seeing. It is here Forest Gump ends his cross-country run and declares he wants to go back home to Alabama. This was a great place for iconic photos and browsing the roadside stands with crafts made by the local Navaho Indians.
A particular highlight of Santa Fe was the Miraculous Staircase at the Loretto Chapel. It is made from wood not native to New Mexico, in a helix shape, held together with wooden pegs but no glue or nails. The story goes it was constructed in the late 1800s by a mysterious stranger who was thought to be St. Joseph. Although it does not seem to have a visible means of support, it is held together by an inner wooden stringer. Regardless, it is an incredible feat of engineering.
At the end of our trip we cruised into Arkansas, and it was a wonderful surprise. We continued onto back roads because we wanted to go south into the Ozark and Ouachita National Forests. We found a beautiful, heavily wooded state park at DeGray Lake. We stayed for a few days, savoring the peace and quiet and slower pace of life. It felt good to be back among the deciduous trees. This spot would be a great destination to bring the fishing poles and the golf clubs and set up camp for a week or two.
We took a day trip into the Hot Springs National Park. It was not as I expected. There are nine historic bathhouses in proximity to one another. We didn’t go into any of them but admired the architecture from outside. The Hot Springs Mountain Tower provided a 360-degree view of the surrounding territory and the lush landscape.
The next day we ventured into the Confederate capital of Arkansas and the largest collection of 19th-century buildings in the state at Historic Washington State Park. A blacksmith shop, weapons museum, print museum and old residences are within easy walking distance. We had a substantial meal at Williams Tavern Restaurant. After lunch, we continued further south and drove past President Clinton’s boyhood home in Hope and dipped our toes into Texarkana just because the name is cool.
These are just a few of the spots we found on the road less traveled. It seems everywhere you turn, there are opportunities for unexpected pleasures in these United States.
Up next: Journey Two of Our Quest